Sal’s Italian Restaurant
At 27, Still Dishing Out Delicious

Written by Mark Hurley
Photography by Doug Miller

Radford calls itself the “Heart of the New River Valley,” and because of Sal’s Italian Restaurant, it may also claim to be Southwest Virginia’s heart of great Italian food. A staple within Radford’s somewhat fickle restaurant scene, Sal’s has been providing patrons with a truly authentic Italian experience for over a quarter of a century. And with each passing year, the owners add something new—from delicious menu items to increased seating to this fall, a new restaurant in downtown Roanoke.
An Italian-American Dream
Sal’s owner, Domenico Pugliese, is a Naples, Italy, native who immigrated to the United States in 1970, bringing with him a passion for his homeland’s cuisine. Domenico got his start in the food business as a ten-year-old child in a Naples bakery. In his adoptive homeland, he spent his first nine years in Amityville, New York, working in Italian restaurants.

“It was the only thing I knew to do,” explains Domenico. Weary of big city life, Domenico, wife Teresa, and their two children Giuseppe (Joe) and Elena, relocated to Southwest Virginia in 1979.

Son Joe remembers his first time arriving in Radford as a young boy. The family rambled south to Virginia on a Greyhound bus, and the trip ended with them stepping out right in front the Sal’s future location on Main Street.

When Domenico leased the space soon thereafter, an American Dream was born. “There was a college and no place to eat,” explains Domenico, adding playfully that Radford’s all-girl status at the time was an added benefit. When I ask the modest business owner why he decided on naming his restaurant Sal’s, he pauses and replies that the name is short and people would remember it.

Sal’s, 27 Years Later…
A lot has happened in the 27 years since. Sal’s remains family run, but can now afford to employ an additional wait and kitchen staff. It began as a narrow hallway with a menu that listed a 16” pizza for $3.95, sandwiches for less than $2, and an icy glass of soda for 35 cents. It took only four years for Domenico to expand the restaurant to nearly triple its original size, and today, the menu is extensive. Offerings include steaming plates of calamari; crisp, colorful salads and antipasto; and rich, velvety meat and seafood entrees. Sal’s also features traditional pasta favorites; crusty, homemade pizzas; giant subs; calzones; and a selection of sweet treats like tiramisu and canolis. The Sicilian pizza is a real standout, with heaps of fresh toppings and a flaky, fluffy crust.

Domenico’s son, Joe, handles the majority of the restaurant workload now. Sharing his father’s passion for food, he graduated from New York City’s French Culinary Institute in 1996 and returned home to work at the restaurant. Chef Mike Gucciardo, previous owner and operator of Floyd’s Pine Tavern, recently joined the team, and the two work intensely to adhere to Domenico’s standards of excellence. Sal’s seafood arrives fresh from the beach; cheeses, tomatoes, and olive oil are shipped straight from Italy. “Nothing is prepackaged,” says Joe. And Domenico still helps to prepare the occasional delight.

Coming soon: Nico’s Ristorante in Roanoke
It is well worth a trip to Radford, but Roanoke will be getting its own taste of Sal’s when Joe opens Nico’s Ristorante downtown. In the former location of Italiano’s site across from Twist & Turns on Campbell Avenue, Nico’s will offer unique entrees such as buffalo, octopus, and rabbit—plus several more traditional favorites for the less adventurous palette.

Joe expects to open the doors in October.

Ti penso sempre, Sal’s
The first time I dined at Sal’s was more ten years ago. Stepping inside, I paused a moment to take in the colorful décor, rich aromas, and soft Italian music echoing throughout the restaurant. The experience invoked memories of some of my favorite Italian eateries in New York, but would the food live up? At first bite, Sal’s became—and remains—my favorite pizza in Southwest Virginia. And in years since, the fabulous food and warm reception of the Pugliese family draws me and other Southwest Virginians back again and again.

Sal’s provides a true, sensory experience of Italian cuisine and culture. But be careful, once you visit, you might soon find yourself speaking Italian—“ti penso sempre, Sal’s,” or “I think of you always, Sal’s.”

Sal’s is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 am to 11 pm and on Sunday from 12 noon to 10 pm. You can call ahead and order a family-style meal for your group; just dial 540.639.9669. And be sure to keep your eyes open for Nico’s, coming to downtown Roanoke this fall. For more information, visit Sal’s website at www.salsradford.com.

Posted: October 1st, 2006 under Taste of the City.

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~Mark Hurley’s passion for food was sparked early in life. Born in Mexico City, he grew up with authentic Mexican cuisine and after moving to New Jersey, was privy to some of the finest restaurants in and around New York City. Mark is a Roanoke College graduate who began his fifteen-year restaurant career working and managing at Corned Beef & Co. He later opened and ran the popular neighborhood restaurant, Hurley’s Restaurant, on Grandin Road between 1994-2000. Mark resides in Roanoke with his wife Joan. He can be contacted in care of City Magazine at 540.345.6300 or contact@citymagazineonline.com.