Tony Pope’s Bistro and Wine Bar
Taking the Art of Food to Soaring New Heights

Written by Mark Hurley
and Elizabeth Parsons
Photography by Doug Miller

 

 

Over the years, residents of South Roanoke have been perplexed over why restaurants in the historic white colonial at 2123 Crystal Spring Avenue (in front of Fork in the Alley) can’t seem to stay in business. Over the course of six years, five different restaurants have opened in that location, only to shut their doors after a short stint. Now another restaurant, Tony Pope’s Bistro and Wine Bar, is making a go at the place and by the sound of early rave reviews, the sixth time may be the charm.

Chef and owner Tony Pope is a native of Huntington, West Virginia, a true culinary artist who has built a reputation by working in some of the nation’s finest restaurants. The road to savory success wasn’t always certain, however: Pope first attended Marshall University and received a degree in sports management. While supplementing his income by waiting tables at a local restaurant, Pope discovered that his true passion was not sports, but food. So after completing his degree at Marshall he packed his bags and headed to Charleston, South Carolina, following an acceptance into the prestigious Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute.

Since graduating from Johnson and Wales, Pope’s various culinary experiences have included the venerable Buckhead Diner in Atlanta and the legendary Greenbrier in White Sulfur Springs, West Virginia. Pope even worked under superstar chef Susan Spicer in New Orleans, at Bayona, her flagship restaurant.  With this wealth of experience under his belt, in 2003, Pope moved back to Charleston to launch his own restaurant, the Zinc Bistro.  Reviews were solid, but fate had other plans: in 2005, the real estate company that owned his building sold the property, and Pope was forced to close the establishment.

Pope remained undaunted, however, and soon decided to relocate closer to his parents and West Virginia roots, landing in the Star City. In February 2006, Pope accepted the position as chef at the Roanoke staple Wertz’s Restaurant, where word of Pope’s extraordinary talents quickly spread to area diners. But things didn’t work out between Pope and management, and he decided to again strike out on his own. After a tireless search, he found the perfect spot in South Roanoke and opened Tony Pope’s Bistro on February 8, 2007. “I am thrilled to be here. I love the idea of a neighborhood bistro,” Pope says enthusiastically.

Pope is dismissive about the soured luck of his predecessors, preferring instead to focus on the present and ensuring that his customers enjoy an exemplary dining experience. “I am taking a very sincere approach to it, making sure everything is great,” explains Pope. He adds, “I am personally involved [in every aspect of the business] and am here twenty-four-seven.”

It shows. Pope’s meticulous attention to detail is evident throughout the restaurant: from the tastefully redecorated lounge area and the copper top bar (built from scratch by Pope and his dad), to the crisp and elegant setting of tables, to the presentation of food and superior staff.

But Pope’s expertise truly shines in his knowledge and understanding of the food business. Because of his vast experience in the industry, the chef knows where to order the freshest meats and fish from various vendors in Virginia and throughout the country. A faithful adherent to the “Slow Food” philosophy, which focuses on fresh, local, and seasonal products, Pope explains that “everything I do is fresh.” He works closely with farmers in Floyd to ensure his customers get the best produce. Pope finds it “inspiring” to see how they cultivate their all-organic produce from the ground up, literally. He buys his wild game from national purveyors; his seafood arrives fresh daily.

Pope orchestrates his menu to work like a “symphony”—so that his clientele can easily enjoy a blend of its various unique offerings. Consider asking Pope to arrange a tasting menu for your party, or sample some of the smaller (yet filling) plates that are reasonably priced and designed to “mix-and-match” well. When my wife Joan and I dined at Tony Pope’s Wine and Bistro, we began our meal with the Bibb lettuce salad, a light and delicious offering that features crisp, organic greens, a home-made citrus vinaigrette, and aged blue cheese. Next, we experienced the Salmon Crab Cakes and the Oysters Rockefeller, both prepared to perfection. The “star” of our early courses was a “to-die-for” shrimp and grits plate—it was rich, sumptuous, and worthy of plate licking (we managed to control ourselves, however).  We also marveled at the delicate spiciness of the home-made andouille sausage.  

When the entrée sampler of wild game arrived, Joan and I ventured into a new food frontier. We happily forged our way through the unusual flavors of quail, venison, and wild boar. The wild boar tenderloin was wrapped in savory smoked bacon and paired with an apple butter coulis. The roasted quail, paired with pancetta and brioche bread with caramelized peach jam, was so moist and tender it nearly melted on my tongue; while the venison was rich and hearty—how refreshing to savor the flavor of meat rather than the distraction of a heavy-handed glaze. I will definitely order the game sampler again when calling on Chef Pope again. 

For those less adventurous, Tony Pope’s Bistro does offer some of the more traditional fares of seafood, pork, and steak. Although the menu is constantly changing to feature seasonal ingredients, some spring standouts include the sea scallops with asparagus risotto and a shellfish brandy cream sauce, and a muscle and steamed clam dish with white wine and fresh herbs.  For the next eight months, Chef Pope is proud to be “going strictly with produce from the Floyd growers,” a collaboration called Good Food, Good People. “I’ll only be dealing with them,” Pope explains, “and in fact, they are growing things specifically for us. I’d say twenty percent of what they are growing is experimental stuff just for this restaurant.”

Joan and I were equally impressed with the personal yet knowledgeable service offered by Pope’s staff. Our waitress, Kelly Morrison, is also Pope’s pastry chef. When the likeable Morrison greeted us, she offered us the wine list and without missing a beat, suggested the Argyle Pinot Noir as an ideal compliment to the wild game sampler. Our faith in Morrison was not disappointed; we both felt it was one of the most delicious Pinots we ever had. Served to perfection at 52 degrees, the wine boasted ripe raspberry and black cherry fruit, rose petal, and hints of chocolate-vanilla spice. It was light enough so that it did not fill us up nor overpower our remarkable meal.

But when we really fell in love with Morrison is after she returned with a sampling of three varieties of Crème Brûlée—vanilla, espresso, and chocolate hazelnut—that she had lovingly prepared that afternoon. They made for a smooth and luxurious ending to one of the finest dining experiences I’ve experienced in Roanoke to date.

Tony Pope’s Bistro and Wine Bar is open Tuesday through Saturday. Lunch is served from 11:30 am until 3 pm, while dinner is served from 5:30 until 10:30 pm. Beginning April 28th, Pope will offer themed luncheons and wine tastings on the front lawn, which will continue every Saturday afternoon as weather permits. The first of these luncheons will be Spanish themed, featuring whole roasted suckling pig and paella, plus an unusual assortment of Spanish wines selected by Chef Pope himself. Pope also promises a Sunday Brunch, starting soon.  You can make reservations by calling 540.206.2611.

Posted: May 1st, 2007 under Taste of the City.
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~Mark Hurley’s passion for food was sparked early in life. Born in Mexico City, he grew up with authentic Mexican cuisine and after moving to New Jersey, was privy to some of the finest restaurants in and around New York City. Mark is a Roanoke College graduate who began his fifteen-year restaurant career working and managing at Corned Beef & Co. He later opened and ran the popular neighborhood restaurant, Hurley’s Restaurant, on Grandin Road between 1994-2000. Mark resides in Roanoke with his wife Joan. He can be contacted in care of City Magazine at 540.345.6300 or contact@citymagazineonline.com.