Taaza Indian Restaurant Experience the Delights of Southern Indian Cuisine
Written by Mark Hurley
Photography by David Hungate
Entering the foyer of Taaza Indian Restaurant at 117 Duke of Gloucester Street (just off of Franklin Road near Red Lobster), an aura awakens your senses and suggests that you will be in for a delightful and authentic dining experience. An aroma of spices that are distinctively synonymous with Indian food—star anise, turmeric, cardamom—permeate the restaurant and tempt your eager taste buds. Note the large and flowery painting of an Indian woman cupping a shining light in her as you enter. Tradition says that presenting a light to guests is a sign of welcome and honor. And like the painting, Taaza owners Peter and Sarah Radjou have created in Taaza a warm and friendly atmosphere that is truly inviting.
Peter Radjou is a native from Southern India. Peter has always had a passion for food and enjoyed working in the hospitality industry. He studied culinary arts in his native land and worked for various hotels in India. Peter says that when Carnival Cruises recruited him to work for them, that he became educated in the intricacies of fine dining. Peter readily admits that working for Carnival was demanding, but nevertheless liked the structure and the attention to detail.
It was around 2000 that Peter had an opportunity to come to the United States. He and his wife Sarah, whom he met in India, took an offer from friends to be business partners in restaurants in College Park, Maryland and Washington DC. Peter, who is still a partner in those restaurants, decided to move to Roanoke in 2003. A friend of his bought the Holiday Inn Hotel in Tanglewood, and was seeking Peter’s expertise in helping to operate the restaurant, which is now EJ’s Landing.
Sarah and Peter enjoy living in Roanoke, but Sarah admits, “I was skeptical coming at first.” The couple, who have two children, were apprehensive of the move to the Star City, because of their unfamiliarity with the area. But after Sarah extensively researched the region and realized that Roanoke’s school system had a good reputation, her uneasiness waned and she welcomed the move.
Upon hearing last year that one of Roanoke’s long-standing restaurants, DJ’s Rotisserie on Duke of Gloucester Road, was for sale, the family seized the opportunity to buy the building and open their own establishment. Despite some uncertainty that Roanoke could support three Indian restaurants, the Radjous relied on their knowledge of the variety of Indian cuisine to make their establishment distinct from their potential competitors. Peter, who emphasizes only the freshest ingredients in his recipes, named his restaurant Taaza, which means “fresh.” According to Peter, their menu focuses on Southern Indian Cuisine, which is distinctive from that of other parts of India, in that it uses less cream and butter and emphasizes rice as the staple grain. Southern Indian food is also more vegetarian–friendly and is flavored with coconut oil and curry leaves. But the Rajous explain that even though they specialize in South Indian dishes, they also extend their menu to incorporate other geographic areas of India. The restaurant’s impressive virtual tour website at www.taazaroanoke.com offers a descriptive synopsis of the varying dishes from Southern, Northern, and Western India.
The Rajous are meticulous in making their ambiance as authentic as possible to their homeland. With the renovations that include a new bar and carpeting, Sarah and Peter have decorated the restaurant with artwork and artifacts that were brought over from different regions of India. Next to the hostess area an example of one of those pieces hovers over the restaurant lobby. A striking and vibrant painting of a peacock, the national bird of India, brightens the room. Peter confesses, “sometimes it is very hard” to get the restaurant the way he and Sarah want it, but quickly adds “we believe in doing everything the right way.”
Both Sarah and Peter understand that providing good food and a true-to-life atmosphere can only be complimented by superb service. To ensure quality service, Sarah left her position at a bank to work full time at the restaurant. Sarah says she enjoys talking to the customers and works hard to guarantee that they have had an enjoyable dining experience at Taaza. According to Sarah, “I want to make sure [customers] walk out of the door happy.” The couple even goes as far as to recruit their staff from outside of Roanoke to provide quality service for their guests. Many of their staff originate from big city markets like New York and D.C. Even the head chef was recruited from their native land of India.
Taaza’s menu offers a delectable variety of Indian dishes. The Dosa Corner is the part of the menu where you will find South Indian specialties including Dosa, a savory crepe with a stuffing of spiced potatoes and onion masala. Also, a Taaza signature entrée is the Kashmiri Lamb with apricot, lamb chops cooked in their traditional clay oven, topped with a curry sauce and mellowed by apricots. For dessert, the owners recommend the Orange Kulfi, homemade ice cream blended with Grand Marnier Liquors, with a cup of their traditional Indian tea or coffee.
Taaza is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. They have a banquet room available for large dinner parties and catering is available. For reservations call 540.342.4773.
Posted: October 1st, 2007 under Taste of the City.
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~Mark Hurley’s passion for food was sparked early in life. Born in Mexico City, he grew up with authentic Mexican cuisine and after moving to New Jersey, was privy to some of the finest restaurants in and around New York City. Mark is a Roanoke College graduate who began his fifteen-year restaurant career working and managing at Corned Beef & Co. He later opened and ran the popular neighborhood restaurant, Hurley’s Restaurant, on Grandin Road between 1994-2000. Mark resides in Roanoke with his wife Joan. He can be contacted in care of City Magazine at 540.345.6300 or contact@citymagazineonline.com.
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